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Aperitif - A Delightful prelude to a meal
Cognac - The Sophisticated Brandy
Eaux De Vie - Fruit Brandies
Aperitif - A Delightful prelude to a meal
A few gourmets reject aperitifs claiming that the dull the taste buds. They are really referring to liquor cocktails such martini or manhattan that are highly potent! Aperitifs are generally low in alcohol content (16 – 22 ABV), and contain botanicals including aneglica root, cilantro, cumin, thyme, nutmeg and cloves. There are also bitter aperitifs that Italians favour such as Campari and Cynar. Generally, Italians and Central European palates possess higher thresholds for bitterness, and actually like drinks and foods with slightly bitter flavours. Campari, invented in the 19th century by Gaspare Campari, is electric-red herbal liquor always served with water, and on the rocks. Although very popular in Italy and to some extent in other European countries, Campari has never caught on in North America since North Americans prefer slightly sweet flavours. Cynar, brown bitter artichoke liquor, has been around even longer. Italians ascribe to it many medicinal properties, and consume appreciable quantities. Vermouths; elegant, spice-flavoured fortified wines, are excellent aperitifs so long as they are dry like white vermouths from southern France. (Noilly Prat comes to mind). Italian manufacturers in Piedmont like Martini e Rossi, Cora, Ricadonna and Cinzano produce huge quantities of red and white vermouths. The red versions are always sweet; the whites can be dry or sweet. Dubonnet, St Raphael and Lilley are French aperitifs with secret recipes. All were quite popular 30 years ago but now rarely does anyone seek them out. Then there is sherry; Dry sherries (manzanilla, or dry or even oloroso) are excellent aperitifs that deserve better popularity. Tio Pepe is one of the world's most famous dry sherries but there are others that are as appealing, if not more. Dry Sack, or Manzanilla sherries from San Lucar de Barrameda can be excellent aperitifs. Sherry can be super dry or super sweet with every imaginable nuance of sweetness in-between. When promoting aperitif sherries, make sure they are dry and well made. Restaurants that offer imaginative aperitifs generate more revenue help to relax diner, and gain valuable preparation time in the kitchen to boot. Some restaurateurs like to promote a glass of dry sparkling wine or champagne, which can be an elegant and ... |
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Cognac - The Sophisticated Brandy
The superiority of Cognac is firmly based on the systematic exploitation of the region's natural advantages by man. Cognac used to be a little town of 5000 souls towards the end of the 17th century and is probably the best known of all French towns with the possible exception of Paris now. Today Cognac is a bustling town of 80,000 where life and economy revolve around the world-famous, golden, distilled product. If you have an appointment with any Cognac executive around noon, you better be sure to arrive before 12, or you will have to wait until 2 p m because everyone goes home at 12 with a fresh baguette under his/her arm for a leisurely lunch! Rest assured there are few good small restaurants that serve lunch. Cognac's qualities were recognized long before the Dutch started distilling it at the source. English merchants bought the thin acid white wines for their thirsty customers and the Dutch ships were busy carrying loads of Cognac wines to London! Then towards the end of the 16th century, a brilliant Dutch captain thought of distilling the wine at La Rochelle, the main port of export of the region, and upon arrival in Amsterdam to reconstitute it with water! This way he thought he could transport at least twice as much, if not more wine, thus increasing his profits. It is worth pointing out that the Dutch were also enamoured with the acid wines of the Cognac region. When the ship arrived in Amsterdam and people tasted the distilled product they thought it to be very good on its own and considered the addition of water to be a waste! Thus was Cognac, as a distilled product, was borne! In those days the Dutch controlled the Baltic trade including Sweden, Finland and Norway. They had more ships than the Spanish and Portuguese combined and more than England, which was a naval force to be reckoned with. By mid 17th century people already knew that Cognacs distilled from wines of the Champagne region had a more refined taste and texture, a fact still true today. Cognac's natural advantages start with the terroir, blessed with an equable climate and chalk-rich soil. There are seven sub regions in Cognac, the best of which is considered to be Grand Champagne, followed by Petit Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires, Bois Commune. The principle grape variety responsible for the distinct taste of Cognac is Ugni Blanc (a.k.a Trebbiano in Italy), Colombard and Folle Blanche are used in small quantities for special taste effects. Generally the wines are acid and thin. Grapes are harvested by sub region, and separately vinified and distilled. Generally Cognac wines rarely exceed 9 per cent alcohol. What distinguishes Cognac from other brandies is the composition of grapes, the dist... |
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Eaux De Vie - Fruit Brandies
After a rich and satisfying meal central European gourmets always savour a portion or two eaux-de-vie (literally water of life). In fact scientists have proven beyond the shadow of a doubt that moderate alcohol consumption contributes to living longer and healthier lives. Besides, alcohol in low concentrations helps break down low-density cholesterols and in the stomach breaks down fats accelerating digestion. The accent here is on moderation. More than one or two ounces of eau-de-vie after a meal along with wine would certainly be too much. Central Europeans (French, Germans, Swiss, Austrians, Hungarians, Czechs, Poles and Slovenians) have been distilling fruits for centuries and mastered the process while refining constantly. Today you can find outstanding eaux-de-vie of cherries, pears, apples, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, apricots and plums in many specialized European stores from many reputable distillers. Fruit brandies are derived from perfectly ripe fruit that has been crushed, pressed, fermented and distilled. Alembic style copper stills are used in an attempt to obtain best results. Generally, pending on the harvest, 20 – 22 lbs of fruit is required to produce one litre of eau de vie at approximately 40 per cent alcohol by volume. Properly distilled eaux de vie are clear, smell of the base fruit and possess an intense taste. They are always dry, smooth, smell of the fruit and well rounded to provide maximum satisfaction. Practically all are served in snifters to appreciate their distinct aroma and should be chilled but never iced. While some prefer to enjoy eau de vie at ambient temperature, connoisseurs prefer theirs cool. You can always pour an ounce of eau de vie in your coffee, but also mix it in pastries and/or main courses as Normans do. Cognac is essentially an eau de vie of grapes, but most people think of it as a separate entity and clearly it is one of the most popular post prandials in the world! Italians produce brandy, but they also distil grappa from wine pomace. Vignerons in practically all fruit growing regions have always distilled the alcohol of pomace for economic reasons and consumed this rough, rustic, clear, and potent liquid sometimes as early as for breakfast but more regularly after dinner. Grappa today is a sophisticated and smooth product often distilled from Moscato or Nebbiolo pomace, but also from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and even icewine. Modern grappas are marketed in mouth blown Murano crystal bottles of interesting shapes and can be very expensive. Regardless, these are grappas with pedigree which could grace every bar catering to a discriminating clientele. Nonino, Distilleria Bottega, and... |
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